How to Wrap Arborvitae for Winter: Frost-Proof Protection in 3 Layers

Wrapping arborvitae for winter isn’t just about looking tidy—it’s about saving your plants from windburn, frost cracks, and sun scald that can turn lush greenery into crispy brown sticks by spring. 🌿 I learned this the hard way after my first harsh winter left my hedge looking like a sad, brittle mess.

The secret is in the layers: breathable protection that shields without suffocating, timed just right before the first freeze, and secured so it doesn’t flap like a flag in a storm.

You’ll need burlap or landscape fabric (the breathable kind, not plastic), twine or zip ties, and maybe a staple gun if you’re feeling fancy. The key is working in dry, calm weather—never when it’s freezing or windy, or you’ll end up with a tangled disaster.

Start at the bottom of the plant and work your way up, overlapping each layer like wrapping a gift. For harsh climates (think Zone 4 or colder), add an extra layer of straw or mulch at the base to protect the roots too.

When done right, your arborvitae will wake up in spring thicker, greener, and ready to grow—no brown patches, no dead branches, just that satisfying "I did it" moment.

The wrap acts like a cozy blanket: it traps just enough warmth to prevent frost damage while letting air circulate so the plant doesn’t sweat and rot.

And here’s the best part: you can reuse the same materials for years, making this one of the most cost-effective ways to keep your hedge alive through winter.

One last tip: Check your wrap mid-winter if you’re in a snowy climate—shovel off any heavy snow buildup before it tears the fabric or breaks branches.

And if you’re in a milder zone (like Zone 7-9), you might skip the wrap entirely and just add a thick layer of mulch around the base. Either way, your arborvitae will thank you come spring.

What you need

Step-by-step instructions for wrapping arborvitae for winter

Here’s how I protect my evergreens every year—no more brown, crispy branches by spring.

You’ll need burlap or landscape fabric (not plastic—it traps moisture and burns leaves), twine or heavy-duty zip ties, and cardboard or foam board for extra insulation around the trunk. I grab a 10-foot roll of burlap for a 6-foot-tall arborvitae—enough to wrap twice for full protection. Avoid synthetic fabrics; they don’t breathe and can damage tender needles.

Check for sharp edges on any cardboard or foam. Smooth them out with sandpaper or a utility knife—rough spots will tear the burlap and leave gaps where cold air sneaks in. If you’re wrapping multiple trees, measure each trunk first. A 4-inch-wide strip of cardboard around the base prevents rodents from chewing into the bark.

Start at the base of the tree, about 6 inches above the soil, and wrap the cardboard or foam board snugly around the trunk. Secure it with twine or zip ties every 12 inches—tight enough to stay put but not so tight it restricts growth. This barrier blocks voles and deer from gnawing on the bark, which can kill the tree over winter.

Next, wrap the burlap or landscape fabric around the entire tree, starting from the top and working downward. Overlap each layer by 2 inches to seal out drafts. You’ll see wrinkles in the fabric—that’s good! It means the wrap isn’t stretched too tight, allowing air circulation to prevent mold. Leave the bottom 6 inches uncovered unless your area gets extreme winds—then extend the wrap slightly lower.

At the top of the tree, fold the burlap over itself and tie it tightly with twine. If your arborvitae is taller than 6 feet, use two people—one to hold the top while the other secures the fabric. A loose top lets snow pile up and break branches under the weight. For young or thin trees, add a second layer of burlap for extra protection against desiccating winds.

Now, fluff the branches gently to ensure the wrap isn’t crushing them. If you notice brown tips after wrapping, the fabric is too tight—loosen it immediately. In harsh climates, sprinkle a thin layer of mulch (like straw or pine needles) around the base to retain moisture and insulate the roots. Avoid piling mulch against the trunk—keep it 2 inches away to prevent rot.

Wait until late winter or early spring—when daytime temperatures consistently stay above freezing—before unwrapping. I check the weather forecast for a 3-day stretch of 40°F+ to ensure no sudden freezes. Start by untying the top and peeling back the fabric gently, not all at once. This gradual exposure prevents sunburn on the needles, which can happen when wrapped trees get sudden sunlight after months of shade.

Inspect the tree for damage before fully removing the wrap. If you see brown patches, it’s likely winter burn—a sign the tree needs extra water once active growth resumes. Once unwrapped, water deeply if the soil feels dry. I always reapply the wrap the following year—it’s the best way to keep my arborvitae lush and healthy for decades.

Tips & tricks for perfect arborvitae wrapping

Here's what I wish I knew before wrapping my first arborvitae—these small details make all the difference between a tree that survives winter and one that thrives.

Material Selection: The 10-foot roll of burlap isn't just a suggestion—it's the sweet spot for a 6-foot tree. I've learned the hard way that shorter lengths force awkward overlaps that create drafty gaps. For wider trees, add an extra foot of burlap to ensure full coverage without stretching. And while landscape fabric works, burlap actually breathes better, preventing condensation that can lead to mold.

Trunk Protection: That 4-inch cardboard strip around the base isn't just about rodents—it creates a thermal break that prevents cold air from wicking up the trunk. I've seen trees with exposed trunks develop frost cracks even when the branches were perfectly wrapped. Pro tip: Use foam board instead of cardboard if you have it—it's lighter and provides better insulation without adding bulk.

Tightness Matters: The wrinkles in your fabric aren't a mistake—they're proof you're doing it right. Too-tight wraps restrict airflow and can actually increase moisture buildup inside. I test tightness by trying to slide my hand between the fabric and trunk—if it fits snugly but with room to move, you're golden. For tall trees over 6 feet, consider using a second person to help maintain even tension as you work downward.

Timing for Removal: The 3-day stretch at 40°F+ isn't just arbitrary—it gives your tree time to acclimate to changing conditions. I've unwrapped too early after warm days only to see sunburned needles by afternoon. Start with just the top few feet unwrapped for the first 24 hours, then gradually remove more as temperatures stay consistently warm. This gradual exposure mimics natural spring conditions and prevents shock.

Frequently asked questions

Got questions about wrapping your arborvitae for winter? You’re not alone! Here are some of the most common concerns—and their straightforward answers—to help you prep like a pro.

When is the best time to wrap arborvitae for winter?

Wrap your arborvitae before the first hard frost hits—typically in late fall (October or November, depending on your climate). This gives the burlap or frost cloth time to settle and protect the branches from freezing winds and ice. If you miss the window, don’t panic: Just wrap as soon as temperatures dip below freezing overnight.

Do I need to wrap arborvitae every year?

Yes! Even if your arborvitae survived winter last year, consistent wrapping is key—especially for young trees or those in harsh climates. Pro tip: Older, established trees may need less protection, but a light wrap never hurts. Focus on the top half of the tree where damage is most likely to occur.

What if my arborvitae is already damaged by frost?

If you spot brown, crispy branches in spring, prune them back to healthy green growth after the last frost. Avoid cutting into woody stems—focus on dead tips only. For severe damage, fertilize lightly in early spring to encourage recovery. Prevention is easier than repair!

Can I use plastic wrap instead of burlap or frost cloth?

Nope—never use plastic! It traps moisture, leading to rot, mold, or even sunburn in spring. Burlap or frost cloth breathes while blocking wind and ice. For extra insulation, layer burlap over a porous material like landscape fabric (but skip the plastic entirely!).

How long should I leave the wrap on in spring?

Remove the wrap as soon as new growth appears (usually late March to early April). Leaving it on too long can smother fresh shoots or attract pests. Check weekly in early spring—if buds are swelling, it’s time to unwind! Bonus: Store your burlap for next year to save money.

Wrapping up and next steps

Wrapping your arborvitae in three protective layers—burlap, frost cloth, and twine—is a simple yet effective way to shield it from winter’s harshest elements.

By following these steps, you’ll safeguard your evergreen’s health and ensure it thrives for seasons to come. Now that you’re armed with the know-how, grab your supplies and give your arborvitae the winter care it deserves! 🌲❄️

Ready to tackle the task? Start with a single plant or expand to your entire landscape—every arborvitae will thank you! Happy wrapping!