Taunton Deane Perennial Kale Recipe: Cold-Hardy Striped Harvest in Containers

Growing Taunton Deane perennial kale in containers transforms your patio into a year-round harvest powerhouse—even through Taunton’s damp winters. 🌱 The key lies in mimicking its natural woodland edge habitat: rich, well-draining soil, partial shade, and consistent moisture.

Unlike annual kale, this variety keeps producing striped leaves through frost, making it the ultimate cold-hardy crop for Somerset’s mild climate. Start with a 12-inch-deep container filled with equal parts compost and gritty sand—this prevents soggy roots while retaining moisture.

Plant in early autumn for overwintering or spring for a summer harvest. Taunton’s frequent rainfall means containers need drainage holes, and a saucer prevents nutrient loss. The secret to continuous growth? Mulch with straw in winter to protect roots from sudden frosts while allowing airflow.

By mid-autumn, you’ll harvest deep purple-streaked leaves that stay tender through December. Unlike bolt-prone annuals, this kale thrives on neglect—just snip outer leaves as needed. The trade-off? Slugs adore it, so elevate containers or use copper barriers.

Local nurseries like Somerset Plants stock it, or order bare-root plants from specialist growers. For Taunton’s climate, this is the only kale that delivers winter greens without greenhouse fuss. Master the soil mix, and you’ll enjoy harvests when most gardens lie dormant. Ready to grow yours?

What you need

Step-by-step guide to growing Taunton Deane perennial kale in containers

This cold-hardy striped variety thrives in containers—here’s how to cultivate it with minimal fuss.

Choose a 12-inch-deep container with drainage holes—perennial kale needs room for deep roots and won’t tolerate soggy feet. I use unglazed terra cotta because it breathes and prevents root rot. Fill the pot with a well-draining potting mix (avoid garden soil—it compacts and suffocates roots). Mix in 1 part perlite or coarse sand to every 3 parts potting mix for extra aeration.

Moisten the soil until it’s evenly damp but not soggy—think of a wrung-out sponge. Press it down gently so the surface is firm but not packed. This prevents seedlings from toppling over when they first emerge. If your soil feels dry to the touch after watering, add a little more moisture until it holds together when squeezed.

Sow 3-4 seeds per container, spacing them 1 inch apart—this gives you backup seedlings in case some don’t germinate. Press each seed ¼ inch deep into the soil; planting too deep delays germination because the seedling must push through extra material. Cover lightly with a sprinkle of additional mix, then mist the surface with a spray bottle until evenly damp.

Place the container in a warm, sunny spot (65–75°F is ideal) and cover it with a clear plastic dome or plastic wrap to retain moisture. Check daily for condensation—if the dome fogs up, you’ve got the humidity right. Germination takes 7–14 days, so be patient. Once sprouts appear, remove the dome immediately to prevent damping-off disease, which rots tender stems overnight.

Perennial kale needs full sun (6+ hours daily) to develop its signature striped foliage and sweet flavor. If your balcony only gets partial sun, supplement with a grow light positioned 4–6 inches above the plants for 12–14 hours daily. You’ll know your light setup is working when leaves are deep green and compact—not leggy or pale.

Once seedlings have 3–4 true leaves (about 4–6 weeks after sowing), feed them with a balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10) diluted to half strength. Apply it to the soil, not the leaves, to avoid burning tender foliage. Water deeply after fertilizing to help nutrients reach the roots. Over time, you’ll notice the leaves developing their distinctive blue-green stripes—that’s your cue the plant is thriving.

Water when the top inch of soil feels dry—stick your finger in to check. Perennial kale is drought-tolerant once established, but young plants need consistent moisture. Water at the base of the plant in the morning to reduce evaporation and fungal risks. Avoid wetting the leaves, as this can lead to mildew in humid conditions.

Harvest outer leaves when they reach 6–8 inches tall, cutting just above a set of leaves to encourage regrowth. This variety keeps producing through fall and winter if protected from hard freezes. Mulch the soil with 1–2 inches of straw in late fall to insulate roots and extend the harvest season. You’ll be rewarded with sweet, tender leaves well into the cold months.

Tips & tricks for growing Taunton Deane perennial kale in containers

Between us, these little details make all the difference when growing this cold-hardy beauty in containers.

Container Material Matters: While terra cotta is ideal, plastic containers actually retain more moisture which can be helpful in hotter climates. Just be extra vigilant about drainage—add a layer of pebbles at the bottom if your container doesn't have holes. I've found that black plastic pots absorb more heat, which can be beneficial in cooler climates but may require more frequent watering during summer heatwaves.

Germination Environment: The 7-14 day germination window can feel like forever, but you can speed things up slightly by placing your covered container on a heating mat set to 75°F. Just don't let it exceed that temperature—too much heat can actually inhibit germination. I've seen seeds pop up in just 5 days when using this method, though 7-14 days remains the standard window.

Lighting Secret: For those 12-14 hours of grow light exposure, position your lights slightly higher than the 4-6 inch recommendation if your plants start looking pale. The optimal distance is actually where you can just barely touch the leaves without the light turning off—this creates that perfect balance of intensity without burning. I've noticed the striped pattern develops more vividly when using full-spectrum LED grow lights rather than standard white bulbs.

Winter Protection: That 1-2 inch straw mulch is your best friend when temperatures dip below freezing. For extra insulation, I've found that wrapping the container with burlap or even old towels provides an additional layer of protection. Just remember to remove any covering during the day to prevent moisture buildup that could lead to fungal issues.

Frequently asked questions

Is Taunton Deane Kale really perennial, or does it die back in winter?

Taunton Deane Perennial Kale lives up to its name! While it may look frost-bitten in winter, it’s not dead—just dormant. Its roots survive down to -20°F (-29°C), and new growth emerges in early spring. For extra protection, mulch with straw or leaves to shield tender crowns.

How long does it take to harvest after planting?

You can start harvesting outer leaves 6–8 weeks after transplanting (or 8–10 weeks from seed). For baby leaves, snip stems at 4–6 inches tall. The plant rewards patience—it keeps producing for years if you avoid cutting into the center!